德国酒。勃艮第。分数。价格
THIS week’s edition of the Wine Spectator Insider features nearly 40 outstanding white wines from
France and Germany. New reviews for 2008 German Rieslings, nearly all of them sp?tlesen, are featured
here. Bruce Sanderson reports that 2008 in Germany’s Mosel region is an excellent vintage,
particularly suited to sp?tlesen, producing sleek and vibrant Rieslings. This issue’s top-scoring wine
is a classic-rated Mosel Riesling, and you’ll find it among the Hot Wines, on page 4.
Sanderson also reviews more than two dozen white Burgundies from Meursault this week, most
of which come from the outstanding 2007 vintage. The 2007s in Burgundy are lean but pure and
precise Chardonnays, with plenty of mineral flavors. Many are ready to drink now, and all should
hold up for at least another 10 years.
Marvin R. Shanken Editor and Publisher
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A Members-Only, Weekly Publication
France
Burgundy
BOUCHARD PèRE & FILS
Meursault Perrières 2007
93 points | $106 | 80 cases imported | White
Elegant and coiled tight, this white features lime, apple and intense
mineral flavors on a sleek, linear frame. The finish is mouthwatering
and very long, with a chalky feel. Almost ready; better
in a year. Better than previously reviewed. Best from 2011 through
2022.—B.S.
FRAN?OIS & ANTOINE JOBARD
Meursault Poruzots 2005
93 points | $120 | 10 cases imported | White
A delicious, well-integrated white Burgundy that’s ready to drink
now. Honey, peach, grapefruit and mineral aromas and flavors ride
the lush, juicy texture as this glides to a long aftertaste. Should
still develop. Drink now through 2016.—B.S.
VINCENT GIRARDIN
Meursault Les Genevrières 2007
92 points | $90 | 100 cases imported | White
An expansive, inviting white, this exhibits flesh and balance
matched to a vibrant structure. Those components carry the butterscotch,
peach and grapefruit flavors to a long, graceful conclusion.
Toasty aftertaste. Best from 2011 through 2020.—B.S.
FRAN?OIS & ANTOINE JOBARD
Meursault-Blagny 2005
92 points | $120 | 10 cases imported | White
A bit muted on the nose, this shows fine structure and flavors that
are morphing from fruit to smoke, spice and mineral. There’s still a
good dose of lime, and the intensity to develop further. Long finish.
Best from 2011 through 2020.—B.S.
OLIVIER LEFLAIVE
Meursault Charmes 2007
92 points | $96 | 200 cases imported | White
Iodine and seashore aromas foreshadow the mineral element in
this expressive white. Apple, lemon and clove notes add complexity.
It’s propelled by the racy structure, ending with a mineral
aftertaste. Best from 2012 through 2022.—B.S.
THIERRY & PASCALE MATROT
Meursault Charmes 2007
92 points | $82 | 150 cases imported | White
Rich and round, with apple butter, grapefruit and honey notes.
There’s an underlying beam of mineral and acidity keeping it
focused and persistent through the finish. Drink now through
2019.—B.S.
Insider
A FIRST LOOK AT OUR EDITORS’ MOST EXCITING NEW WINES
Vol. 5, No. 44 | Nov. 4, 2009
Wine Spectator Insider Nov. 4, 2009 2 To subscribe, visit www.winespectator.com
THIERRY & PASCALE MATROT
Meursault-Blagny 2007
92 points | $78 | 150 cases imported | White
The smoke- and lime blossom-tinged aromas are alluring, but only
the teaser, as the lime, mineral and peach flavors unfold on the
palate. Racy and tight, this builds nicely to a long, long aftertaste.
Best from 2012 through 2022.—B.S.
MICHELOT
Meursault Charmes 2007
92 points | $80 | 20 cases imported | White
Rich in the context of the vintage, with honey, pastry, lime and hazelnut
flavors on a round frame. Beautifully balanced, it’s nonetheless
vibrant and snappy too, ending with a mouthwatering finish.
Drink now through 2019.—B.S.
MISCHIEF & MAYHEM
Meursault Gouttes d’Or 2007
92 points | $90 | 150 cases made | White
An attractive combination of richness and vibrant structure allows
the peach, quince and grapefruit flavors to shine. The oak treatment
adds a spice accent and this unfolds nicely on the finish.
Best from 2011 through 2022.—B.S.
MOREY-BLANC
Meursault Bouchères 2007
92 points | $130 | 30 cases imported | White
Ripe and supple, with honey, lime, hazelnut and peach tones, yet
also very bright and lively. It’s elegant and harmonious, lingering
with a vanilla, butterscotch and hazelnut aftertaste. Even better in
a year or two. Best from 2011 through 2020.—B.S.
MOREY-BLANC
Meursault Charmes 2007
92 points | $144 | 35 cases imported | White
A core of flesh is offset by the austere nature of this tightly
wound, nervy white. Lime, Granny Smith apple, vanilla and mineral
notes persist through the long finish. Best from 2011 through
2022.—B.S.
JOSEPH FAIVELEY
Meursault Charmes 2007
91 points | $137 | 3 cases imported | White
Smoky, toasty aromas give way to butterscotch, peach and grapefruit
flavor in this spice-filled white. The rich texture up front is
matched by a vibrant structure and the toast and spice aftertaste
lingers. Drink now through 2019.—B.S.
JOBARD-CHABLOZ
Meursault Clos du Cromin 2007
91 points | $54 | 25 cases imported | White
A beautiful Chardonnay, with soft floral and sweet spice aromas
offsetting lime and stone flavors. You can almost feel the mineral
essence as this turns firm and savory on the long finish. Drink now
through 2015.—B.S.
RéMI JOBARD
Meursault Le Poruzot-Dessus 2007
91 points | $99 | 5 cases imported | White
A fleshy, creamy white for ‘07, offering complex aromas and flavors
of lime, fresh herbs, apple and mineral. Very taut and unyielding
now, but with a fresh, crisp finish that lingers. Best from 2012
through 2022.—B.S.
VINCENT GIRARDIN
Meursault Les Charmes-Dessus 2007
90 points | $78 | 150 cases imported | White
Assertive from the bracing acidity, this tight, laserlike white etches
lime, green apple, clove and nutmeg flavors to the structure.
Needs time to unwind and express its mineral side. Best from 2012
through 2022.—B.S.
VINCENT GIRARDIN
Meursault Les Tillets 2007
90 points | $47 | 200 cases imported | White
Complex, showing aromas and flavors of ripe orchard fruit, mineral
and oak spice. The lively acidity keeps it bright and focused and
this cruises to a long, tangy finish. Drink now through 2014.—B.S.
MAISON JESSIAUME
Meursault Charmes 2007
90 points | $60 | 35 cases imported | White
Delicate notes of flowers, herbs, lime and banana grace this elegant
white. There’s a latent energy here, but it needs time to put
all its components together. Best from 2011 through 2020.—B.S.
JOBARD-CHABLOZ
Meursault Le Limozin 2007
90 points | $58 | 25 cases imported | White
A cinnamon aroma leads off, followed by apple, grapefruit, clove
and nutmeg notes. This is tightly wound, with structure coming
from both the acidity and oak. Nice, citrus and spice aftertaste.
Needs time. Best from 2011 through 2016.—B.S.
FRAN?OIS & ANTOINE JOBARD
Meursault En La Barre 2005
90 points | $84 | 10 cases imported | White
Still showing lots of structure, with the flavors beginning to develop
to more toast, pastry, candied grapefruit peel and cooked
spice. Still very firm and powerful, but approachable. Fine length.
Drink now through 2015.—B.S.
RéMI JOBARD
Meursault Les Chevalières 2007
90 points | $75 | 25 cases imported | White
Full bodied and almost creamy in texture, this white features
brioche, peach, butter and grapefruit aromas and flavors. Tightens
up on the finish, which shows fine potential. Best from 2011
through 2015.—B.S.
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LOUIS LATOUR
Meursault Charmes 2007
90 points | $70 | 410 cases made | White
Broad strokes of apple cake, butterscotch and spice lead off in
this powerful white. The racy acidity subdues it on the finish for
now. Needs time to integrate. Best from 2011 through 2019.—B.S.
DOMAINE LEFLAIVE
Meursault Sous le Dos d’Ane 2007
90 points | $156 | NA cases made | White
Ripe, verging on apricot in flavor, with hints of nectarine, grapefruit
and vanilla, yet essentially mineral c. It’s full bodied and
sinewy, with a juicy finish. Best from 2011 through 2020.—B.S.
MANUEL OLIVIER
Meursault 2007
90 points | $60 | 50 cases imported | White
The flavors are a delicate mix of flowers, lime, hazelnut and chalk,
matched to a stern frame. There’s a nice touch with the oak here
and the finish lingers. Drink now through 2014.—B.S.
ROUX PèRE & FILS
Meursault Clos des Poruzots 2007
90 points | $95 | 50 cases imported | White
Aromas of pastry lead off, supported by apple and citrus flavors.
It’s a bit compact now, with some tannins also creating a firm
edge that clamps down on the finish. Best from 2011 through
2020.—B.S.
Germany
BASTGEN
Riesling Sp?tlese Mosel Brauneberger Juffer-
Sonnenuhr 2008
92 points | $29 | 75 cases imported | White
Appetizing, piquant flavors courtesy of the spice and acidity in
this light bodied, lively white. Smoke, slate, lime and apple complete
the flavor spectrum and the finish is mouthwatering. Best
from 2012 through 2030.—B.S.
ROBERT EYMAEL (M?NCHHOF)
Riesling Sp?tlese Mosel ürzig Würzgarten 2008
92 points | $27 | 500 cases imported | White
Rich, vibrant and spicy, its peach, nectarine and mineral aromas
and flavors unfolding with grace and intensity. There’s a piquant
liveliness and this ends long and satisfying. Drink now through
2028.—B.S.
REINHOLD HAART
Riesling Sp?tlese Mosel Ohligsberger 2008
92 points | $42 | 100 cases made | White
Broader than its peers, with apple quince and mineral salt flavors
allied to a bracing structure. It’s on the drier side too, with persistence
and staying power. Should be ideal for game with some
age. Best from 2011 through 2024.—B.S.
DR. LOOSEN
Riesling Sp?tlese Mosel Erdener Treppchen 2008
91 points | $30 | NA cases made | White
Plump and juicy, with racy acidity driving jellied citrus and apricot
notes. A latent mineral element sits under the surface, rising on
the lingering finish. Drink now through 2024.—B.S.
DR. LOOSEN
Riesling Sp?tlese Mosel ürziger Würzgarten 2008
91 points | $30 | NA cases made | White
Plenty of lily, freesia and orange aromas and flavors here, buoyed
by the bright acidity. It’s delicate and filigree, with a lingering,
mouthwatering finish. Drink now through 2026.—B.S.
BASTGEN
Riesling QbA Mosel Blauschiefer 2008
90 points | $17 | 300 cases imported | White
Apricot, passion fruit, spice and mineral notes mingle in this juicy
Riesling. It’s crisp and balanced, with a lingering, mouthwatering
finish. Drink now through 2012.—B.S.
KARTH?USERHOF
Riesling Sp?tlese Mosel Eitelsbacher
Karth?userhofberg 2008
90 points | $40 | 500 cases made | White
Lime, apple and grapefruit notes collaborate with the vibrant
structure and weightless profile, leaving a vivid impression on the
palate. A racy Riesling, with a mouthwatering mineral finish. Best
from 2011 through 2025.—B.S.
LOOSEN BROS.
Riesling QbA Mosel-Saar-Ruwer Dr. L 2008
90 points | $12 | 75,000 cases made | White
Sleek and tangy, showing apricot, lime and mango flavors
matched to a lively structure. Nice harmony and persistence
through the finish. Drink now through 2018.—B.S.
DR. LOOSEN
Riesling Sp?tlese Mosel Wehlener Sonnenuhr 2008
90 points | $30 | NA cases made | White
Sleek and pure, offering savory, mineral notes evenly matched by
peach and lime. It’s more about precision and detail than power.
Nice juicy finish. Drink now through 2025.—B.S.
DR. H. THANISCH (VDP)
Riesling Sp?tlese Mosel Berncasteler Doctor 2008
90 points | $69 | 150 cases made | White
There’s a confection aspect to the lime, apple and peach flavors in
this elegant, classy white, with a beam of lime and mineral on the
finish. Light-weight and focused. Drink now through 2024.—B.S.
ZILLIKEN
Riesling Sp?tlese Mosel Saarburger Rausch 2008
90 points | $40 | 200 cases made | White
Bracing, this compact, delicate white offers vanilla, lime, slate
and a hint of passion fruit flavors. It’s juicy midpalate, with a long,
incisive finish. Best from 2012 through 2024.—B.S.
REINHOLD HAART
Riesling Sp?tlese Mosel Piesport Goldtr?pfchen 2008
95 points | $42 | 200 cases made | White
Haunting, this evokes violet, black currant and slate aromas and
flavors, all defined by the taut, racy structure. It’s light-weight,
lean and intense, with a kaleidoscope of flavors on the expansive
finish. Tensile. Best from 2014 through 2032. From Germany.—B.S.
LOUIS LATOUR
Meursault Perrières 2007
94 points | $85 | 175 cases made | White
Racy yet stylish and exuding focused flavors of lime, green apple,
flint and a hint of vanilla. Fine balance within its taut, linear profile,
with a long stony finish. This should age beautifully. Best from
2012 through 2025. From France.—B.S.
MISCHIEF & MAYHEM
Meursault Les Charmes 2007
94 points | $90 | 100 cases made | White
An enticing white, bursting with lemon cake, pear, hazelnut and
vanilla aromas and flavors, all very pure and defined. There’s richness
and elegance at once, dissolving into a spice, citrus and mineral
aftertaste. Best from 2011 through 2024. From France.—B.S.
SCHLOSS LIESER
Riesling Sp?tlese Mosel Brauneberger Juffer
Sonnenuhr 2008
93 points | $35 | 400 cases made | White
Brown spices, apricot, peach and slate aromas and flavors highlight
this laserlike white. It’s vivid and impacts the palate like a
neon sign at night. Lovely slate-tinged aftertaste. Best from 2012
through 2030. From Germany.—B.S.
Wine Spectator Insider Nov. 4, 2009 4 To subscribe, visit www.winespectator.com
HOT WINES These are the most exciting discoveries from our editors’ most recent tastings, published
exclusively in Wine Spectator Insider. They are high-scoring, low-production
wines from around the world that may be difficult to find, but are worth seeking out.
Wine Spectator’s tasting staff includes 14 people in three offices.
They work together to review more than 18,000 wines each
year, more than any other publication. Together, our seven
senior tasters count more than 140 years of tasting experience.
We always taste wine blind in our offices in Napa, New York
and Tuscany. This is your guarantee that our reviews are fair
and objective, and that a wine’s reputation or price does not influence
its score. Each editor specializes in the wines of specific
regions; their initials identify the taster of each wine reviewed.
We score wines using the 100-point scale, explained below.
James Laube Senior editor, Napa
Joined Wine Spectator in 1983. Tasting beat: California
Kim Marcus Managing editor, New York
Joined Wine Spectator in 1988. Tasting beat:
Austria, Greece, Portugal, southern France
Thomas Matthews Executive editor, New York
Joined Wine Spectator in 1988. Tasting beat:
New York, Spain
James Molesworth Senior editor, New York
Joined Wine Spectator in 1997. Tasting beat: Argentina, Chile,
Loire Valley, Rh?ne Valley, South Africa
Bruce Sanderson Tasting director, New York
Joined Wine Spectator in 1993. Tasting beat: Burgundy,
Champagne, Germany
Harvey Steiman Editor at large, San Francisco
Joined Wine Spectator in 1983. Tasting beat:
Australia, New Zealand, Oregon, Washington
James Suckling European bureau chief, Italy
Joined Wine Spectator in 1981. Tasting beat:
Bordeaux, Italy, Port
Tasting staff:
Tim Fish (California),
Alison Napjus (Alsace),
MaryAnn Worobiec (California)
Wine Spectator’s 100-Point Scale
95–100 Classic
90–94 Outstanding
85–89 Very good
80–84 Good
75–79 Mediocre
50–74 Not recommended
WINE SPECTATOR’S TASTERS
The Most Experienced Team of Wine Journalists in the World
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