2010年的第一份品鉴报告－极大可能开盘价格比2009年上扬10－15%;-From Decanter Bordeaux 2010 5Stars Part 8

Sauternes & Barsac

Once again a great vintage in Sauternes, the continuation of a stunning succession: 2001, 2003, 2005, 2007 and 2009. Yet the style of this latest vintage sets it apart. 2010 has a special balance, of very rich botrytised berries and remarkable acidity, giving pure and crystalline aromas to the wine, nearer to Riesling TBA than usual fat, oaky and slightly dirty old-fashioned Sauternes! The summer was hot, very dry and not especially favorable to botrytis, or even normal ripening, because of water stress. But after an early October storm, rains gave way to sunny days and fresh nights and an incredible concentration got underway in the berries, with many estates having to pick almost their entire crop in under two weeks. Most of the crop was picked above 20° of potential alcohol, and the wines show great majesty. Of the two communes, Barsac stands out - its healthier, more golden grapes have given rise to some mind-blowing wines, surpassing all but the best Sauternes. Overall, the wines’ balance of acidity, purity of taste, length and sheer tactile sensations put them on a par with 2007, ‘05 and ‘01, though you’d need to go back to 1988 or even 1937 to find such refinement of texture, but with far less volatile acidity. Some have suggested the 2010s lack botrytis character but I disagree. To my mind, many are masterpieces of modern sweet winemaking: rich, pure, true to terroir, but far easier to drink than those of the past. By Michel Bettane

Recommended wines

Chateau Doisy-Daene, Cru Classe Barsac 2010

Super, pineapple-like nose, wonderful texture, perfect balance, very long, so pure and true to great Barsac type, with the salty element that's so nice for appetitive consumption. Drink 2016-2040. (18.5 points)

Chateau d'Yquem, 1er Cru Superieur Sauternes 2010

Extraordinary purity of aromas, with an airy power difficult to rival, a new brilliant example of the actual style of the property, with the vintage's monumental body completely hidden by the refinement of tactile sensations. Some are nostalgic for the epic oily bodies of the past, not I (even if I greatly admire them). Drink 2020-2070. (19 points)

Chateau la Tour Blanche, 1er Cru Classe, Sauternes 2010

Bags of acidity balancing the very high sugar content, impressive, and as always an intriguing touch of Muscadelle-like floweriness which is the signature of the growth. Marvellous finesse. Drink 2020-2050. (19 points)

Chateau Suduiraut, 1er Cru Classe, Sauternes 2010

Super nose with some exotic pineapple/mango/passion fruit undertones mixed with Vouvray-like blossom-tree and quince jelly, enormous body, but incredible purity and crystal-like transparency, great length, a masterpiece! Drink 2020-2070. (19 points)

Chateau Rayne Vigneau, 1er Cru Classe, Sauternes 2010

Noble nose, with tea and white flower undertones (often found in 2010), more Vouvray or Riesling-like than traditional Sauternes, superb purity, great level of sugar but also perfect oily texture, very long and complex aftertaste, a great wine form this great terroir and a challenger for the best First Growths. Drink 2020-2050. (18.5 points)

Chateau Rieussec, 1er Cru Classe, Sauternes 2010

Some oaky, smoky elements dominating the fruity, juicy ones, but so impressive in the mouth. Great volume, great concentration, bags of refined and complex flavours, great length, and more Sauternes-like this time than Riesling. Drink 2020-2050. (18.5 points)

Chateau Sigalas-Rabaud, 1er Cru Classe, Sauternes 2010

Golden colour, but with green edges indicating ability to age, some oakiness but as with Rieussec impressive texture and aftertaste, great class, and perfect 'Haut-Bommes' type (Haut-Bommes is the name of the most elevated Sauternes quarter). Drink 2020-2050. (18.5 points)

Chateau Clos Haut-Peyraguey, 1er Cru Classe, Sauternes 2010

Rich, creamy, wonderfully marked by super botrytised berries, lots of sugar but also lots of charm, comfort, purity and energy. A future classic, with an Yquem-like nobility. Drink 2020-2050. (19 points)

Chateau Lafaurie-Peyraguey, 1er Cru Classe, Sauternes 2010

Very rich and pure aromas, mix of agrumes and white fruits, delicious balance, slightly less precise sample than Clos Haut Peyraguey, but very similar in overall balance and texture. Great future. Drink 2020-2050. (18.5 points)

Chateau Guiraud, 1er Cru Classe, Sauternes 2010

More lactic notes than most, more intensity of yeasty undertones, very intense, great proportions, great style, great future, showing the energy of a perfectly cultivated vineyard. Drink 2018-2040. (18.5 points)

Chateau Coutet, 1er Cru Classe, Barsac 2010

Perfect balance, lots of class, super-refined texture, great length, great wine: purity and power! Drink 2020-2040. (19 points)