转半篇关于MARGAUX平反的文章 - 来自NEAL MARTIN

From Seeds of Grain

Hanson begins by introducing Corinne and “Director-General” Paul Pontallier, a title that makes him sound like a military commander about to invade Saint Julien. Before handing over the microphone, he comments upon the historical association between Chateau Margaux and Christies auctioneers whose archives record the future First Growth under hammer on 8th February 1788, fifteen cases of what is believed to have been the 1784 vintage from the cellar of the French ambassador, subsequently reaching 48 shillings per dozen.

This was a timely appraisal of Chateau Margaux under the aegis of Paul Pontallier whose name has become synonymous with the estate since his joining late spring 1983, having previously studied at Montpellier University, written a thesis upon barrel ageing and worked in Santiago. But it was Professor Emile Peynaud who had taken the fallen First Growth out of the doldrums following its acquisition by André Mentzelopoulos in 1977. Peynaud oversaw the installation of new second year cellars, the acquisition of new barrels, reintroduced the Second wine “Pavillon Rouge”, installed ceramic rather than more economical plastic drains, restored the iconic Doric facade and refurbished the interior to its original Napoleon I Regency style. After all that work, it was amusing to hear Corinne mention that at the time, Peynaud gave a frosty reception to Pontallier’s appointment. “C’mon Paul,” she says. “We can tell them that now.”

André Mentzelopoulos himself, had humble beginnings, born in Greece to an illiterate hotel owner, then caught in Burma when the country was invaded by the Japanese in World War II, escaping via China to India and Pakistan where he made a fortune as a grain importer. The peripatetic entrepreneur travelled west to France where he married a girl from Toulouse and it was here that he acquired a grocery store, which he expanded from 80 outlets to 1,600. During his frequent business trips, André was often accompanied by his young daughter and thus Corinne met dignitaries such as Jimmy Carter and the Dalai Lama. She developed a penchant for England and Scotland, her father often quoting Sir Winston Churchill and Rudyard Kipling, whilst her first nanny was Scottish, which might explain her predilection for porridge and Bovril (I assume separately.)

Tragedy struck when Andre passed away aged 65 and Corinne was asked by her mother to run the business: a tall order for such a young person, a woman inhabiting a misogynistic world at that! But she was mature beyond her years and well-educated, studying in Ontario in Ancient Greek, Latin and philosophy then furthering her education with an MBA in economics. It was not only Chateau Margaux that she was suddenly responsible for: her father’s business interests were diverse, including investments in Perrier amongst several others.

Her ambassadorial flair caused many to assume she was the sole proprietor when in fact she co-owned the estate with the   Agnelli family, owners of Fiat. But in 2003, following the passing away of Giovanni Agnelli, she was finally able to purchase their shares, by which time she had overseen the complete renaissance of the First Growth, in no small part to the man sitting next to her: Paul Pontallier. “He is like a painter with his palette when sampling countless lots against each other,” she enthuses, but the artist himself is eager to commence the tasting and begins by commenting upon the first wine: Pavillon Blanc.

TN:

Justice For Zorba! Chateau Margaux 1978-2004

Tasting Notes

All bottles were ex-chateau reserves, poured in the order listed below except for the Chateau Margaux 1981 served in the boardroom after the tasting.

1993 Pavillon Blanc du Chateau Margaux 86
A pale straw colour. A languid nose with moderate definition and intensity, very smooth with a touch of candle wax and orange-blossom. The palate is quite simple, graceful, and still quite fresh, with hints of orange zest, hazelnut and a dry finish that reminds me of a Southern Rh?ne. Medium-length with a soft finish. Drinking very well now but it lacks the tension of later vintages. Tasted March 2008.
 
2004 Pavillon Rouge du Chateau Margaux 90
A bright garnet core. A lovely, soft, sensuous nose with great delineation with ripe black fruits, blueberry and a touch of mocha, in the background a hint of tobacco leaf. The palate is medium-bodied, firm dry tannins, quite masculine, compact and perhaps a little closed down since bottling? Good weight, linear, grippy unresolved finish but good length. This definitely needs more time in bottle. Very fine but a rather uncompromising Pavillon Rouge. Drink 2012-2020 Tasted March 2008.

2004 Chateau Margaux 95
A slightly deeper colour than the Pavillon Rouge. The nose has more intensity than the Pavillon, perhaps a little pointed at present, superb delineation with notes of black cherries, blueberries, bilberry and a touch of oyster shell. The palate is full-bodied, lovely balance, bright and vivacious but like the Pavillon it has an unresolved, grainy, slightly with a touch of damp earthy and bitter chocolate on the finish. It requires another 10 years in bottle but very good potential. Drink 2018-2030+ Tasted March 2008.

2001 Chateau Margaux 94
Just a hint of ageing on the rim. The nose has a certain aloofness, a density with black brambly fruits, hedgerow, a touch of liquorice and black olives with a faint hint of green pepper. The palate is full-bodied, tannic, very good acidity, just lacking the depth of the 2004 but harmonious although there is a slight bitterness pervading the mid-palate. Lovely refined, silky finish with quite a complex finish, earthy like the 2004, hint of black truffle) but with a very dry aftertaste. Drink 2012-2030 Tasted March 2008.

1996 Chateau Margaux 98
A touch of brick on the rim. The nose is supremely well focused and delineated, extremely pure with scents of blackberry, limestone, a touch of plum and cassis. Powerful yet suffused with finesse. The palate is medium-bodied, beautifully balanced with silky smooth tannins, brilliant focus with a sweet, poised finish of blackberry, dark cherry and cassis. The Cabernet Sauvignon is running the show (87-88% of the blend.)  So elegant, so incredibly focused, so Chateau Margaux at its very best. Drink 2015-2035+ Tasted March 2008.

1995 Chateau Margaux 96
On the nose, one can immediately detect the greater percentage of Merlot in the blend: more red fruits evident with touches of kirsch and cranberry, evolving a slight cooked meat aroma in the glass. The palate is medium-bodied, quite backward, with firm tannins, very seductive and intense. Lovely fleshy middle redolent of the ’85 with a savoury aspect embellishing the finish that has a slight semblance to a Cabernet Franc based Saint Emilion. Very intellectual – it deserves another 8-10 years in bottle. Edging closer in quality to the 1996 but a different creature. Drink 2015-2035+ Tasted March 2008.

1989 Chateau Margaux 95
Garnet core with thin tawny rim. A very lifted, perfumed, cedary nose with a touch of peppermint. You can still feel the warmth from the summer with a faint hint of prune. The palate is delectable: medium-bodied, very fine tannins, a savoury meaty edge, very harmonious with that peppermint tincture coming through again on the finish. Chateau Margaux mimicking Pauillac. Very fine, surfeit finesse and character, a Margaux that begs to be imbibed rather than analysed. Drink now-2020+Tasted March 2008.

1983 Chateau Margaux 98
Served from magnum, this has a deep garnet colour with youthful limpid ruby rim. The nose is very intense with superb delineation: blackberry, cedar, black olives, oyster shells and red cherry. Very fresh and vivacious. The palate is beautifully balanced, very precise and focused with crisp black fruits, minerals, oyster shell and brine. This wonderful Margaux has great persistency and stunning length. A fabulous wine with slightly better focus than the 1982. Drink now-2020+ Tasted March 2008.

1982 Chateau Margaux 96
Served from magnum. This has a very intense, slightly minty nose with touches of rusty nails, savoury fruits, kirsch, chestnuts and smoke. Complex with good delineation. The palate is much better than the nose. Ripe precocious red-berried fruits laced with iodine, very good acidity, vibrant, bright and animated on the finish. A burlesque wine, showing more age than the ’83 although this bottle did not have the depth or breeding I have found on previous occasions. Drink now-2020+ Tasted March 2008.

1981 Chateau Margaux 89
A dusty nose dominated by autumn leaves, black pepper and tobacco, the palate under-ripe but still lively, quite acidic with tertiary notes of dried leaves, forest floor and damp moss, in a similar vein to the Chateau Margaux 1978, which seems to have lasted better. Drink now. Tasted March 2008.

1978 Chateau Margaux 90
Served from magnum. A bright garnet core with brick rim. The nose is lacking a little intensity but is fresh with notes of tobacco, cedar, bell pepper, singed leather and cigar box. The palate is medium-bodied, very traditional in style but very well balanced with a fresh, dry, leafy, graphite-tinged finish with surprisingly good length. Drink now. Tasted March 2008

geez~

这个半篇实在是~

田鼠啊！田鼠啊！别在放田鼠了！眼花的厉害！

以后只许拼音

直接拉到底

水一下

以後翻譯好了放上來。

这个看原版的有味道呀！

直接拉到底。

+50

+50

今天看了1半

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