Every Super-Tuscan can trace its roots back to Sassicaia, the grand patriarche of all these wines, which was first produced by Marchese Mario Incisa della Rocchetta for his own consumption in the 1960''s. But in the case of Ornellaia this is especially true, as the winery was founded by Lodovico Antinori, whose aunt Clarice della Gherardesca married Marchese Mario. The Antinori family were already on the scene in Italy''s greatest up-and-coming wine region, as Lodovico''s brother, Piero, had been consulting at Tenuta san Guido, home of Sassicaia, since the 1968 vintage. To Lodovico the opportunities offered by the marshy Tuscan coastland known as Maremma, once valued by nobody save for a few lonely head of grazing cattle, might have been irresistible, having seen the success that his brother had achieved. In truth, however, his first calling was California, but others persuaded him of the potential on his doorstep, and having acquired a plot of land from his mother, he set about creating a great estate to produce wines in the emerging Super-Tuscan mould. This meant eschewing Tuscany''s Sangiovese in favour of Bordeaux varieties, and a massive investment was underway; 70 ha were planted up with Cabernets Sauvignon and Franc, as well as Merlot and Sauvignon Blanc. The first vintage, which saw the release of the estate''s flagship and best known wine Ornellaia, was 1985. Lodovico developed and nurtured the estate for over a decade, and in November 1999 took on Mondavi of California as minority shareholders. By 2002, however, the unflawed gem that is Tenuta Dell''Ornellaia had passed in Mondavi ownership, who subsequently sold on 50% of the shares to the Italian Frescobaldi family. Ludovico stood down, intending to move on to pastures not-so-new, the establishment of another new Bolgheri winery, this time in partnership with his brother, Piero. In April 2005 Mondavi moved out, and Frescobaldi took full control of Tenuta Dell''Ornellaia.
Tenuta Dell''Ornellaia comprises two individual estates, the original Ornellaia property, where the stylish, Napaesque (perhaps reflecting Ludovico''s experience in California) winery is located, having been built in 1987, and then the later addition at Bellaria, north-west of Bolgheri. At Ornellaia there are 30 ha of vineyards dedicated to the production of Ornellaia and Le Serre Nuove, the grand vin and second wine, both Bordeaux blends of the two Cabernets and Merlot. In addition there is an 8 ha block planted exclusively to Merlot which gives rise to Masseto, one of Italy''s leading examples of the type, although some might argue that my description is understating the case; many regard this as the greatest Italian Merlot. As mentioned above there was also Sauvignon Blanc, although the wine was discontinued in 2002. There is also a little Petit Verdot which was planted in 1995, although according to winemaker Axel Heinz in order to avoid difficulties with the local authorities this is catalogued as Sangiovese! The vineyards range in altitude from 50 to 120m, with the Masseto vines sitting on clay-rich soils with numerous, irregular pebbles, whereas the Ornellaia vines grow on a mix of sand and clay. The vines are planted at 4000 vines/ha in the original vineyards, with density increased to 8000 vines/ha with more recent plantings; the average vine age is fifteen years. Meanwhile Bellaria, which lies at a similar altitude, has similar terroir, lying on pebbly clay, although there is also some limestone in this region. Here the vines are densely planted at up to 8700 hl/ha, and being more recently established, have an average age of just eight years. All vines are potentially subject to green harvesting, keeping yields below 45 hl/ha, are come harvest time are picked by hand and transported in small, 15 kg baskets.
Head of the winemaking team at Ornellaia is Axel Heinz, of French and German parentage, drawn to Italy by an appreciation of the beauty that can be found here. He has clearly found his niche in Tuscany. He controls a small portfolio of exceptional wines produced at Tenuta Dell''Ornellaia, led by the grand vin, Ornellaia. This has traditionally been a Cabernet Sauvignon cuvée (this variety accounting for 46 ha of vines), with a decent proportion of Merlot and a little Cabernet Franc, although there is also now the possibility of Petit Verdot appearing in the blend. It has been produced since 1985, and was bolstered in 1997 by the creation of the second wine, Le Serre Nuove. The blend for the second wine obviously takes the fruit rejected from the first, so if the year favours Cabernet more Merlot will go into Le Serre Nuove, and vice versa, although in fact the plots of vines that give rise to each cuvée are well defined; as with most second wines, Le Serre Nuove tends to include the fruit from the younger vines. Fermentation is in wood, with maceration for up to thirty days, followed by ageing in barrel for twelve months (70% new, 30% second year), before assembly, and the finished wine then goes back into oak for a further six months before bottling.
The estate''s pure Merlot, Masseto, was created in 1986 as a trial and proved a runaway success. Produced from the upper, clay-rich vineyards at the main Ornellaia estate, and aged in oak for two years, this cuvée is now the most highly sought after of all produced at Ornellaia, and sells for twice the price of the estate wine. At the other end of the spectrum is Le Volte, first released in 1991. This is 50% Sangiovese, the balance being Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. Aged for ten months in barriques of two to four years of age, this is frequently touted as being a good value cuvée.
My experience of Ornellaia takes in several vintages of the estate wine, together with corresponding vintages of the second wine. The tasting was led by Axel Heinz. For those that criticise even the presence of Bordeaux varieties in Tuscany, I only have this to say; your opposition mystifies me. These wines showed a warmth, roundness and tannic structure typical of Cabernet-dominated wines, but with a finesse and acidic freshness that was quintessentially Italian. These are fine wines indeed. (13/12/05)
Contact details:
Address: Via Bolgherese 191, 57020 Bolgheri
Telephone: +39 0565 71811
Fax: +39 0565 718230
Internet: www.ornellaia.it
