美食记西拉巅峰探索(一)Cool Climate Syrah/Shiraz Landmark Tasting酒庄和酒款介绍
美食记西拉巅峰探索(一)Cool Climate Syrah/Shiraz Landmark Tasting酒庄和酒款介绍
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酒庄一: Domaine Jean-Louis Chave
酒庄建于1481年,500多年历史。目前的掌舵人是Domaine Jean-Louis Chave,
简称JL Chave, 北隆的顶级酒庄,尤其在Hermitage地区。Jean Louis Chave,
毕业于University of California Davis, 父亲Gérard Chave退居幕后做帮手。
Making wine is not our job, it is our life.” –Jean-Louis Chave
JL Chave 酒庄在Hermitage山坡上拥有近15公顷的葡萄园,横跨了9个Climate
(Hermitage有18个Climates), 包括:Les Bessards, Les Roucoles, Maison Blanche
and the monopoles L'Hermite and Peléat。 约3/4面积种植着西拉(平均树龄35年),
其余种植着均龄60年的白色品种马尔萨讷(Marsanne)和胡姗 (Roussanne)。
酿造方法上:做部分de-stemmed,在open wooden vats and cement cuves中进行
发酵。然后酒在large wooden foudres and small wooden casks (a proportion of
which will be new) 进行12-18月的陈放,所有的酒都不做过滤。
喜欢北隆的wine lover一定要喝一下的酒庄。
Parker和JR对酒庄的评论:
Parker: “There can be no doubt that son, Jean-Louis, and his papa, Gerard Chave, the most recent Chaves in a family of growers that has been making Hermitage for six centuries, are among this planet’s greatest winemakers…”
Jancis Robinson: “Today Chave is arguably the most respected producer of Hermitage… the most celebrated small grower-producer”
酒款:Domaine Jean-Louis Chave Hermitage 1997
Neal Martin (92-94):
An intense black cherry nose. Powerful redcurrant, cherry fruits. Tight, backward and concentrated.
Black pepper and charcoal. Firm but the tannins remain unobtrusive. More conservative than the 1994
but it just oozes class. Drink from 2008. Tasted April 2002.
Robert Parker(94):
The 1997 Hermitage rouge is unusual in its fruit-forward, user-friendly style. The color is a dense
ruby/purple. The gorgeous, evolved bouquet of cassis, minerals, herbs, underbrush, and licorice is intense.
Creamy-textured, full-bodied, and opulent, this low acid, gloriously ripe, layered 1997 can be drunk now,
but promises to be even better with another 5-6 years of cellaring; it will last for 20-25 years.
酒庄二:Paul Jaboulet Aine
Paul Jaboulet Aine是隆河著名的大酒厂。1834年创立,目前年产400多万瓶,拥有100多
公顷葡萄园,其中的25公顷在Hermitage。
Paul Jaboulet Aine的La Chapelle (小教堂) 是Hermitage的顶尖酒款之一,也曾列入某些
书的百大葡萄酒。(关于百大排名这种东西,卖酒的可以利用一下,喝酒的报着看热闹
的态度就可以了)。小教堂由100%西拉酿造,所选用的葡萄藤龄超过40年,是北隆西拉
高品质和可陈年的典范。
酒款:Paul Jaboulet Aine Hermitage La Chapelle 1997
Robert Parker (95-98):
The 1997 Hermitage La Chapelle is a monumental wine. The harvest was completed on
October 14, with some cuvees achieving 14.5% natural alcohol (the alcohol level in the
final blend is 13.5%). The wine looks impressive, with a viscosity and unctuous richness.
There is amazing fat and chewiness, as well as spectacular aromatics of over-ripe black
currants and blackberries intermingled with barbeque spices, soy, and jammy black fruits.
The tannin seems lost in the wine's full-bodied, silky-textured, voluptuously rich, staggeringly concentrated style. The mid-palate explodes with sweetness, glycerin, and extract.
The finish lasts for 40+ seconds. The 1997 should be remarkably approachable given
its opulence, although it will firm up and close down. The wine was scheduled to be
bottled without filtration in February, and released later this year. It is undoubtedly a
mind-blowing Hermitage La Chapelle. Anticipated maturity: 2004-2035.
酒庄三:Domaine Auguste Clape
北隆传统派的代表,长达一个多世纪的历史。
Robert Parker的评价:
"…the passionate guardian of a tradition that in many ways he defined … the reference point
for the appellation."
Clape家族一个多世纪前从朗格多克迁徙到Cornas, 当时绝大多数葡萄种植农都把葡萄卖给
Negociant, Auguste Clape是第一个坚持自己酿酒,自己装瓶卖,终成大家。
Auguste Clape后来做过Cornas的市长。酒庄历经Auguste儿子Pierre-Marie,现在由
孙子Olivier主持。
酿酒技术直至今天,还是保持原来的风格,基本没什么大的变化。
葡萄要等充分成熟后才进行采摘,老藤葡萄不做去梗,在contrete tanks中发酵6-7天,
接着3-7天的浸皮以萃取单宁。不用新桶陈年。
酒款:Domaine Auguste Clape Cornas 2008
酒庄四:CAVE YVES CUILLERON
酒款:CAVE YVES CUILLERON Cote-Rotie Madinière 2010
详细资料:100% northern sector 西拉, 部分去梗,3个星期的浸皮,在50%新桶
和50%一年桶中陈放18个月,不做过滤。第一个年份是2004年。
酒庄五:Mount Langi Ghiran
Mount Langi Giran酒庄位于澳大利亚维多利亚州Grampians产区的心脏部位,产区
偏僻,非常凉爽,得益于350米的海拔。葡萄园种植于1964年,在充满古老花岗岩
的山区里,是澳大利亚生产冷凉产区西拉的标志性酒庄。
酒庄的旗舰西拉是Langi Shiraz, 2007年产量是1000箱。
酒款:Mount Langi Ghiran Shiraz 2007
Lisa Perrotti-Brown(WS):93
Giving a very deep garnet-purple color, the 2007 Langi Shiraz has aromas of crushed
blackberries and anise with a whiff of mint and some cardamom. The palate reveals a
full body with medium acidity, a medium to firm level of very fine tannins and a long
finish. This vintage should be drinking best 2013 to 2023+. 1000 cases were made.
James Halliday: 96
Near-identical deep crimson colour to all six releases; has the multi-layered flavours
promised by the bouquet, and more texture from the fine, ripe tannins which run through
the medium- to full-bodied palate and lingering aftertaste.
酒庄六:Craggy Range
新西兰生产premier win的酒庄,成立于1997年,由投资人Terry Peabody和Steve Smith
MW创立。酒庄有两款旗舰产品,波尔多红混酿的Sophia, 和100% Syrah的Le Sol.
Le Sol是新西兰顶尖西拉的代表作,葡萄来自Hawks's Bay的Gimblett Gravels产区。
酒款:Craggy Range Le Sol 2007
Bob Campbell 96分;
Robert Parker 96分;
酒庄七:Halcon
酒款:Halcon Syrah Alturas 2009
End
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